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FX160 stalls at ilde like it is over fueling

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  • #1

    FX160 stalls at ilde like it is over fueling

    Hi,

    I have a Yamaha FX160 that stalls at idle. When it is not in the water, it seems to idle ok, on the flusher it will idle ok for a little while, then stall. In the water, it wont idle at all. Its as though it is over fueling, as i get a distinct smell of fuel.

    I have had the injectors cleaned out and flow tested and they came back fine. I have tried to wind up the idle to counter act the problem, but the idle hunts all over the place and sometimes it leans out so to speak. Like the idle takes off and revs high to like 4000rpm then will slowly come back down and stall.

    I have swapped the idle bypass over with no change and all hoses are connected there.

    Any insight would be helpful.
    Tags: yamaha
  • #2
    How about the TPS sensor? Throttle Position Sensor. Have you checked that?

    My idle on my 06 is fluctuating a little not as bad as yours it's about 200 RPM, I don't have stalling issues either.

    Check the black lines going to your by-pass valve, make sure they are tight and not breathing air.

    I'm assuming you have already changed the plugs...Although plugs won't cause idle racing but stalling...

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    • #3
      Originally posted by CaptainReza View Post
      How about the TPS sensor? Throttle Position Sensor. Have you checked that?

      My idle on my 06 is fluctuating a little not as bad as yours it's about 200 RPM, I don't have stalling issues either.

      Check the black lines going to your by-pass valve, make sure they are tight and not breathing air.

      I'm assuming you have already changed the plugs...Although plugs won't cause idle racing but stalling...
      Hi, thank you for the reply.
      I have not checked the TPS as of yet only because I have done a self diagnostic check on the system and it came back "01" meaning all systems were operating properly. But I will have a look into it.
      Yes I have checked the bypass valve, and all hoses are tight.
      The spark plugs are only 10hrs old, and it has been doing it for the whole time they have been in there. It is really annoying me.

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      • #4
        I suggest to check the tps. I wanted to do that myself but wasn't worth the hassle for my problem. It's in a very tight spot.

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        • #5
          Btw, I found a guy selling them on Ebay for $20.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by CaptainReza View Post
            I suggest to check the tps. I wanted to do that myself but wasn't worth the hassle for my problem. It's in a very tight spot.
            Can it be checked easy enough with a multi meter? And if so, what am i looking for?

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            • #7
              Do you have the shop manual? Yes, it can be tested with a multi-meter. There is a range in the shop manual and there's apparently an adjustment dial. It says if that adjustment dial isn't making any difference then change the sensor.

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              • #8
                Yes i have a shop manual, all i could find was an output voltage which is listed a 0.756V, but it says you need a test harness and i take it the ski must be powered up.

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                • #9
                  Yes you are correct. I would strip part of the wire and connect the volt meter to those wires. It has to be on while you are doing it, you are correct on that as well. I don't have the wire harness either. Just do it with patience and properly so you can put electrical tape on the wires.

                  How about if you just unplug the sensor and connect the multi meter to the pins with a small aligator clip? Would that work you think? That way you don't have to strip the wire. I guess point is to read the sensor output, am I right?

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by CaptainReza View Post
                    Yes you are correct. I would strip part of the wire and connect the volt meter to those wires. It has to be on while you are doing it, you are correct on that as well. I don't have the wire harness either. Just do it with patience and properly so you can put electrical tape on the wires.

                    How about if you just unplug the sensor and connect the multi meter to the pins with a small aligator clip? Would that work you think? That way you don't have to strip the wire. I guess point is to read the sensor output, am I right?
                    Yes, i think i will make some type of linkage myself, or maybe even remove the pins from the plug itself and try plug them in and use them as the contact point for the multi meter, but you are right, it is real tight in there.

                    One thing i have noticed that i havent listed is that out of the water, i start the ski up and rev it, and it doesnt rev cleanly, it sounds like it is loaded up, then clears and revs clean after it clears. If you let it go back to idle and try it again, it loads up again, then clears and revs clean. This is when i smells really fuely.
                    Too bad i cant see the amount the injectors are pumping in...

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                    • #11
                      I Hope it's the tps and not the ecm...ECM adjusts the fuel mixture. That's an expensive unit.

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                      • #12
                        Btw, what year and how many hours?

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                        • #13
                          Ok, so here is what i have done today.

                          I made up a quick adaptor so that i could test the TPS, it was really easy to do and worked sweet. I tested the TPS and i came back about 0.25V over, so i adjusted. I have adjusted it to within 0.10V of the correct setting, which by the manual should be fine. It gives a +/- of 0.16V so i am within specs. I have ran the ski on the flusher, and no difference, within 15 seconds of idling it stalls.

                          I was really hoping that the TPS would be the problem, but it was not meant to be.

                          The engine is new with 10hrs on it. It was a brand new genuine Yamaha short block. All other accessories that bolt to the short block, including the cylinder head had 180hrs on them. It ran fine before it blew up due to a drop in oil pressure, it sat for 6 months while we worked out the best course of action to fix it, then fitted the new motor with the old head, and it has done this stalling issue ever since. It is a 2005 model.

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                          • #14
                            Sounds like you have an air leak some where.....

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Aquaholic6801 View Post
                              Sounds like you have an air leak some where.....
                              Thats what i was thinking originally. If it were an air leak, the only place it could be is in the inlet between the underside of the throttle bodies and the cylinder head itself, in that rubber flange joiner. But i have double checked to make sure they are tight on the cylinder head, and i have even put some gasket glue on the top side to seal the throttle bodies, and it still does it.

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