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Timing chain tensioner.... oil leak

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  • Timing chain tensioner.... oil leak

    Per the other thread. I need some advice as to fix this issue with having to buy a new head. In short, the tensioner banjo bolt stripped out the threads in the head. I will have to install a heli coil m10 to get my threads back. ( this is why the oil was leaking) do I have to pull the head?? If so, not to bad of a job? Just have to remove cams and head bolts etc?

  • #2
    Sent you PM

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    • #3
      Wow
      sigpic

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      • #4
        Being an oil feed I would remove the head to do it

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        • #5
          I did solved same issue with a longer banjo bolts, but it was in the feed from block to oil pump.
          2009 MODDED FZR
          2012 STOCK VXS

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          • #6
            I am planning to grill and tap with a heli coil. That should make it strong as hell. I think it's m8 1.25 threads.

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            • #7
              Shouldn't even be a question you NEED to pull the head to prevent metal shaving from contaminating oil and possible damaging engine components.

              It is extremely easy to pull the cylinder head. 30min-1hr at most.

              I've seen this happen multiple times and i have to ask... how the hell do so many strip the threads.. The Banjo Bolt uses washer seals on both sides... There is absolutely no reason to torque it down so tight. a little over sung is all that needed.
              2015 FZR - Vipec - Corn Fed - Twin Prop

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              • #8
                I believe it is M10..

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Chupacobra
                  Shouldn't even be a question you NEED to pull the head to prevent metal shaving from contaminating oil and possible damaging engine components.

                  It is extremely easy to pull the cylinder head. 30min-1hr at most.

                  I've seen this happen multiple times and i have to ask... how the hell do so many strip the threads.. The Banjo Bolt uses washer seals on both sides... There is absolutely no reason to torque it down so tight. a little over sung is all that needed.
                  No need to remove the head at all. !!!! The metal can be caught on the other side in the top of cylinder head. It can be seen by just removing the valve cover.

                  Easy enough to get at. None of it on that side of the engine is going to fall into lower parts of engine.

                  And depending on level of mechanically skills it does not take 30mins to and hour to remove the cylinder head. You are talking utter rubbish. I've been a mechanic for 25yr and mine took over 2 hrs to remove.

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                  • #10
                    Scotty. Thanks for the pm. Question is, if I don't pull the head, how can I tap the threads? Is there enough room? Or will I need a 90 degree drill? I am not a mechanic by trade but I have built engines before and and mechanically inclined. I feel confident on doing it while the head is installed if I can safely remove the contaminants as you said. Also, what size drill bit?

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                    • #11
                      For me it was because it didn't go in straight. Because I tq it to 12 ft lbs only.

                      Originally posted by Chupacobra
                      Shouldn't even be a question you NEED to pull the head to prevent metal shaving from contaminating oil and possible damaging engine components.

                      It is extremely easy to pull the cylinder head. 30min-1hr at most.

                      I've seen this happen multiple times and i have to ask... how the hell do so many strip the threads.. The Banjo Bolt uses washer seals on both sides... There is absolutely no reason to torque it down so tight. a little over sung is all that needed.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by DanSVHO
                        Scotty. Thanks for the pm. Question is, if I don't pull the head, how can I tap the threads? Is there enough room? Or will I need a 90 degree drill? I am not a mechanic by trade but I have built engines before and and mechanically inclined. I feel confident on doing it while the head is installed if I can safely remove the contaminants as you said. Also, what size drill bit?
                        I'm not sure on size of drill bit. But yes I believe you would be able to drill it with the head on. Angle drill will give you a better chance.

                        I would think you would have to remove fuel rail and inlet manifold to give you plenty room.

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                        • #13
                          And there is room inside of head to collect the metal
                          Bits?

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by DanSVHO
                            And there is room inside of head to collect the metal
                            Bits?
                            Yes.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by DanSVHO
                              And there is room inside of head to collect the metal
                              Bits?
                              I've had a look at the banjo bolt hole on my old head. It reduces down in size into where the front part of inlet camshaft sits

                              So engine would have to be timed up and camshaft removed to be on the safe side. I would definitely try and do this with the head on. Even to save you money. Head gasket and bolts here in UK are around the ?รบ200 mark to buy.

                              The old head bolts can't be reused due to being stretch bolts. I can't upload the pictures on here from my phone not sure why keeps saying I'm not signed in.

                              PM me a email address and I will forward the pictures onto you if you still want them

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