Manual fuel pump control

[K447]

I built this little rig for a friend. He wants to run the in-tank fuel pump and flow the gasoline out, thereby emptying the fuel tank as part of winterizing the watercraft.

This one was made to fit the 2017 GP1800. I expect it would also work with many other models and years of 4-stroke Yamaha watercraft that use the same fuse block and fuel pump wiring.

What this rig does is directly feed 12 volt battery power into the wire harness, into the same pin that normally the fuse relay powers when the ECU wants to activate the fuel pump.

My Yamaha has a polarized pigtail connection for my battery charger. The pigtail lead is always connected to the battery and stays in the ski. It is fastened up high in the hull above the battery, easy to reach yet out of the way.



I can then use the polarized pigtail to power other things. In this thread I use it to power my MaptunerX box.

The fuel pump manual switch gadget described here uses the same battery charge pigtail to run the fuel pump. If I ever need to use it with a 'stock' Yamaha that does not have the pigtail installed, I can just plug it into a pigtail charging cable with battery clamps.

[K447]

The switch is something I just happened to have on hand. It is weather sealed with a flexible cover where fingers press the rocker switch on/off. Since it will be used to flow gasoline I wanted something that wet fingers would not have trouble with.

The photos show it prior to being wrapped with tape to cover the electrical contacts. A thin layer of dielectric grease might also be a good idea.



The 'handle' is just a plastic paint stir stick. It not only provides some structure to keep the switch and wires together, the long handle hopefully will reduce switch fumbling while managing the fuel transfer process.



Only one pin is needed to power the fuel pump. The factory wire harness connections at the fuel pump remain connected. This provides 'ground' connection for the fuel pump, in the normal manner. The battery in the hull remains hooked up in the normal way, to both red and black heavy battery cables.

In this photo the single pin in the new connector is visible in the left column, in the center position.



The connector to mate with the factory wire harness is a DL-090 12-pin Female connector.

Note: The adjacent 8-pin fuse panel connector is also DL 090.
Not needed for the fuel pump thing, just FYI.



When plugged in the mating pin on the Yamaha wire harness is color coded blue. Blue = Fuel.
Before using it for the forts time, confirm visually that the blue wire in the factory connector is in line with the switched power feed wire in the new connector.

To use the fuel pump manual control, unplug the 12-pin connector from the fuse panel. It is the leftmost connection when looking down at the mid-wall, behind the engine. The other two connectors can remain in place, as seen in the background.



Plug in the new connector. Verify it is clicked into place.

In my version the polarized pigtail power feed goes through an inline fuse holder with 10 amp fuse (same fuse amp rating as the factory fuel pump fuse panel). Then there are several feet of cord (AWG 16) going to the switch assembly. From there back to the ski and the new connector.

[K447]

Correction:

The connector to mate with the factory wire harness is a DL-090 12-pin Male connector.

https://youtu.be/3taNlGiII4g

[scittb]

https://www.amazon.com/GasTapper-Gasoline-Transfer-Equipment-Vehicles/dp/B00QSPU0NS/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1543118133&sr=8-10&keywords=portable+fuel+pump

i use this. just pop off filler hose and done!

[K447]

And here it is being used.

http://greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=276128&p=2993344&viewfull=1#post2993344

[TimeBandit]

I built this little rig for a friend. He wants to run the in-tank fuel pump and flow the gasoline out, thereby emptying the fuel tank as part of winterizing the watercraft.

Innovative & creative approach

However, keeping the tank topped-off with fuel stabilizer is typically best practice in protecting the fuel pump components and wiring from potential oxidation/corrosion. The fuel will displace both oxygen and water vapor from being in-contact with many exposed wiring terminals inside the tank, the pump motor, fuel sender unit, etc...

That said, I don't personally have to deal with really really cold conditions . . . is that why the owner wants all the petrol removed?

[Mr. GP1800]

Innovative & creative approach

However, keeping the tank topped-off with fuel stabilizer is typically best practice in protecting the fuel pump components and wiring from potential oxidation/corrosion. The fuel will displace both oxygen and water vapor from being in-contact with many exposed wiring terminals inside the tank, the pump motor, fuel sender unit, etc...

That said, I don't personally have to deal with really really cold conditions . . . is that why the owner wants all the petrol removed?

I wanted all of the ethanol fuel out of the tank. I replaced it with non-ethanol 91 octane.

[TimeBandit]

I wanted all of the ethanol fuel out of the tank. I replaced it with non-ethanol 91 octane.

That sir is an excellent lay-up strategy.

[Spooling1]

For any engines I winterize which use fuels with Ethanol, I use the marine stabil (the blue stuff). It should help keep ethanol from collecting with moisture into a gloopy mess.

[DR2006RXP]

For any engines I winterize which use fuels with Ethanol, I use the marine stabil (the blue stuff). It should help keep ethanol from collecting with moisture into a gloopy mess.

Yup I like using the greasy type fuel stabil from fuel medRX helps with ethanol issues never had an issue .