Above Forum Ads

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

FX HO Impeller Project & Questions

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #46
    Originally posted by K447
    I typically apply a thin and sparse coating of anti-seize on the driveshaft threads for the impeller.

    Look where the impeller contacts the flat washer in the stator hub. A thin layer of anti-seize on that face should help to solas impeller 'release' when you later need to remove it.

    I will mention that (IIRC) the service manual makes a point about not under torquing the impeller when install it. The install torque number is quite high. Torquing the impeller to a relatively gentle initial torque may allow the engine power to over tighten the impeller when you are riding.

    That said, the anti-seize compound will somewhat reduce the torque needed to achieve 'specified' tightness.

    Find the factory spec for your jet pump, compare with the Solas spec (if there is one) and then tighten the Solas impeller towards the low end of that range.

    My 2017 GP1800 SVHO service manual says 243 ft-pounds of tightening torque.

    I slather it up good with anti seize. Apply it very liberally. I've never had an issue removing an impeller after doing this. Between the anti seize and the R&D dual washer it makes removing the impeller a piece of cake. I just pulled one a few days ago so I could remove the R&D washer to put on my new ski coming. That impeller will be coming off before the ski ever sees water. Give it no chance to seize up on the threads.
    2023 FX Limited SVHO.
    2017 GP 1800 Stage 1+

    Comment


    • #47
      Well, I did not "slather it up good" with anti-seize, but I did put a thin coat on the surface where the impeller contacts the washer and tightened it to 240 ft lbs. Before tightening the impeller, I also applied waterproof grease to the shaft threads as the service manual described. It actually still had grease on the threads from the original assembly at the factory. So, I'm feeling good about it. I'll probably finish fully assembling the jet pump & controls by the weekend, so I can test it out on the next warm day. This FX is my wife's ski, so if I mess this up or she won't be happy.

      Oh yeah, my paranoia is over because I did not break the Solas impeller tool. I just clamped the Solas tool in a vice and turned the torque wrench on the shaft spline tool until I heard the torque wrench click.

      Comment


      • #48
        Question about the Speed Sensor cable, is this 1 continuous cable from the sensor all the way to the circuit board? Or is there a connector inside this of this PVC nut, so you can disconnect it when removing the ride plate? See the pic below. The reason I ask is because the 4 Phillips head screws holding the sensor to the ride plate are stuck and I will strip the heads if I try to take them loose.
        Click image for larger version

Name:	speed sensor.png
Views:	131
Size:	644.7 KB
ID:	6154112
        Attached Files

        Comment


        • #49
          It is one cable all the way up to the front area of the hull. Quite annoying.

          When I still had the factory speed sensor I would just stand the ride plate next to the hull when removed.

          Eventually I replaced the speedo paddle wheel with a CandooPro GPS speed module and deleted the paddle wheel assembly entirely.

          That plastic nut thing is just a rubber gland seal. The nut holds the rubber around the wire and compresses it to make a water tight seal.
          Originally posted by bizeagle
          Question about the Speed Sensor cable, is this 1 continuous cable from the sensor all the way to the circuit board? Or is there a connector inside this of this PVC nut, so you can disconnect it when removing the ride plate? See the pic below. The reason I ask is because the 4 Phillips head screws holding the sensor to the ride plate are stuck and I will strip the heads if I try to take them loose.
          Click image for larger version

Name:	speed sensor.png
Views:	131
Size:	644.7 KB
ID:	6154112

          sigpic
          How to post your question, AFTER you have done your homework
          Asking for help via Private Message?
          For Ficht EMM Repairs, contact Lakeside Tech
          Yamaha NanoXcel hull repair info
          Polaris PWC useful info

          Comment


          • #50
            looks like it would be easier to insert the drive shaft & new impeller with the ride plate removed. So I will try it with the drive plate loosened. I’ll remove it if I can’t get the drive shaft splines to line up.

            Comment


            • #51
              So, my impeller project went well. Everything worked as y'all said it would. I installed a new Solas 13/19 but the original impeller was actually pretty clean, just a few nicks & scratches along the leading edges.

              However, I still feel excess vibration and wonder what it could be. The pump bearings that I can see looked perfect, made zero noise and were smooth when I had the shaft out and rotated it. So, could the vibration be coming from the mid-shaft bearing? The ski has 240 hours on it. The motor runs great & the oil is super clean. The only mods are ribbon delete and performance air filter. Any advice from you experts?

              Comment

              Working...
              X
              😀
              🥰
              🤢
              😎
              😡
              👍
              👎