FX HO Impeller Project & Questions

[bizeagle]

This is my first time to replace an impeller, so I need a bit of advice as I am digging into the project. Also, I want to post a new way of separating the impeller duct from the impeller housing (my invention).

First, popping the impeller duct away from the impeller housing when the factory has used too much sealant and the alignment pins won't turn loose: The nozzle came off with just a pry tool against the tabs and the water filter housing but the impeller duct was stuck fast and there is little room to use a pry tool in there. So I used the long impeller housing bolts and 2 C-Clamps to force it loose and it popped right off. Here is a pic:

After the nozzle is off, screw the long bolts back into holes, clamp on the C Clamps onto the heads of the bolts and the back of the front flange of the impeller duct. Then gradually tighten each clamp a little until the impeller duct pops free. This works because there are no threads inside of the impeller duct bolt holes. The force is exerted on the impeller housing bolt threads. This was really easy to do and put very little stress on the parts.

Here is my question; as I am about to remove the impeller shaft assembly, I found that the face of the impeller duct is coming in contact with a rib on the inside of the ride plate. So, I want to know is this normal? See the pic below:

What should I do? Do I need to take the ride plate loose? If I take it loose what is the likely hood of introducing a water leak? I trying to avoid any screw ups.
Thanks for all the good advice y'all have provided so far (Jerry, Time Bandit, K447, etc.)

[Baja FZS]

Mine was the same way, it's normal. Some people do some grinding on the ride plate, but I just removed it. No problems in removing it, it gives you better access to remove the water lines too.

[Wild Thing]

I done this just last weekend, it may help

https://youtu.be/_HdxfaCcD_E

[bizeagle]

Mine was the same way, it's normal. Some people do some grinding on the ride plate, but I just removed it. No problems in removing it, it gives you better access to remove the water lines too.

If you remove the ride plate, are there any seals or O-Rings to replace?

Also, on the overall job, most of the bolts removed had some kind of thread locker on them. I assume I should use some thread locker when I reinstall all the bolts. Is Loctite Blue the right stuff to use? (Loctite Red is the permanent stuff)

What are the torque specs for the pump bolts? (in ft lbs please)

[mittens]

I cleanance all my ride plates so I can use wedges or not & swap nozzles with out changing ride plates.

But removing ride plate is not the end of the world either.

[bizeagle]

I loosened the ride plate bolts and it made enough clearance to slide out the pump shaft

[DavidH]

Removing the ride plate is about the easiest thing to do on these skis. The insert is water tight. On the old ones you would worry about spinning the inserts, not so much now.

[bizeagle]

Can someone post the the Torque specs on the various bolts around the Jet Pump/nozzle/etc.? ~2015 FX HOs

[Wild Thing]

Can someone post the the Torque specs on the various bolts around the Jet Pump/nozzle/etc.? ~2015 FX HOs

Tight but not swing on the ratchet like an ejit

[bizeagle]

Tight but not swing on the ratchet like an ejit

Thanks, but I can't seem to find the "tight" or "ejit" settings on my torque wrench, only numbers

[Wild Thing]

You are honestly overthinking it

[bizeagle]

You are honestly overthinking it

hey, I used to be a hot rod car and motorcycle builder and we always paid attention to torque specs, especially on Japanese stuff. Just got used to it

[bizeagle]

I spent yesterday afternoon trying to pop the impeller loose from the shaft but it is resisting my efforts. I watched several videos but they all seemed to skip the the parts where they go through hell trying to get it loose other than to say they applied heat. Then they start spinning off the already loosened impeller, like it was no big deal (but this thing is screwed on incredibly tight).

Question: using a propane torch, what part of the impeller should I heat up? At the bolt end (near my wrench), the middle (near the base of the blades) or the base (near the Impeller Duct Housing). I don't know where the threads are inside of the impeller, so I am asking based on your experience.

[K447]

I spent yesterday afternoon trying to pop the impeller loose from the shaft but it is resisting my efforts. I watched several videos  (but this thing is screwed on incredibly tight).


Have you seen this thread?

http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=265077&p=2888228&viewfull=1#post2888228

The Yamaha impeller has a left hand thread.

Using a rather long cheater pipe on the box end wrench, it can take quite a push to crack the impeller loose on the driveshaft. In my experience the first pop looser is the biggest, then further rotation creates a second pop and the impeller is now free to spin.

While others have said they can use a bench vice and wrench, in my experience the torque values are too great for using any normal home workshop bench vice. Per the linked post above, use the correct spline tool and a breaker bar. Lay the whole assembly on the ground and use vehicle tire weight to hold it there. Then use body weight on the long cheater pipe to torque the impeller loose. Turning in the correct direction to loosen a left hand thread, of course.

https://youtu.be/h-ApsaJehHU

[Wild Thing]

Man post no 3, I actually show you how to do it from start to finish