Help me Pick the correct oil for my 2016 Yamaha FX Cruiser SHO.

[allenvos]

Hi Guys,


So Yamaha recommends their Yama lube which is a 10W40 Mineral grade oil for my machine. I have no issue putting that stuff in my machine except my nearest Yamaha dealer is over an hour away from me so I'm looking to find a good substitute that will be correct for my machine.

I have done some research and to my understanding Yamaha does not post the ratings of their Yama lube making it difficult to figure out exactly what their blend is.

I have read extensive threads on this and what I have found is this.

1) A mineral based 10w40 oil must be used as opposed to a synthetic oil due to the design of the one way Sprague in the super charger clutch.

2) It has been recommended to use a mineral oil with no extra additives such as friction modifiers etc. that might be found in automotive grade oils

3) I have seen both API SL recommended as well as JASO


So here's what adds to the confusion. I have seen a wide variety of oil types used in these machines including synthetic which apparently is a No No on a Yamaha supercharged machine.

I have also read that a JASO mineral based oil is good to use as it does not have the regular automotive friction modifiers. However what I am finding is JASO is for motorcycles with wet style clutches. So it would only stand to reason that it has a friction modifier in it?

Also for the API AL specification........ Correct me if I'm wrong but is this not an automotive grade oil with friction modifiers in it?


I have seen a lot of people recommend the AMSOIL 10W40 synthetic marine oil for my application, however everything I have read say no synthetic oil due to the super charger clutch.

Does anyone here have a clear cut answer as to what oil I could purchase that would be a suitable replacement for the Yama lube oil?

I'm not looking for personal opinions or trying to start a pissing match folks.

I'm just looking for some clear cut facts that would help me and others choose a correct suitable substitute to Yama Lube

I have found a Lucas oil that is a Mineral based 10 W 40 JASO oil.

So far that might seem like my best option.

[Team Bilford]

A synthetic oil is no "slicker" than a mineral based oil. Wet style motorcycle clutches do not use moly or any other friction modifier. Most automotive 30 wt oils will have moly and labeled as "energy conserving" on the API star. Fortunately, most 40W oils do not. The easiest way to select any oil is to use the manufacturer's recommendation for weight combined with the JASO MA or MA2 rating. Almost any 10w or 5w -40 motorcycle oil will work in addition to Rotella T6, and Amsoil Marine. Yamalube mineral is on the lower end of the quality spectrum and it works just fine. It hard to choose the wrong oil unless you get one with a friction modifier in it like most of the 30W and thinner auto oils. I would also avoid the "high end" motorcycle oils like Red Line and Motul. They are ester based oils that do not cling to metal well providing poor corrosion protection in engines that have an offseason storage like PWC.

[Green Hulk]

Any quality 10w40 mineral oil works just fine. It doesn't have to be JASO rated. We have to use JASO oil in the Sea Doo's due to the wet friction clutch on the supercharger.

[allenvos]

A synthetic oil is no "slicker" than a mineral based oil. Wet style motorcycle clutches do not use moly or any other friction modifier. Most automotive 30 wt oils will have moly and labeled as "energy conserving" on the API star. Fortunately, most 40W oils do not. The easiest way to select any oil is to use the manufacturer's recommendation for weight combined with the JASO MA or MA2 rating. Almost any 10w or 5w -40 motorcycle oil will work in addition to Rotella T6, and Amsoil Marine. Yamalube mineral is on the lower end of the quality spectrum and it works just fine. It hard to choose the wrong oil unless you get one with a friction modifier in it like most of the 30W and thinner auto oils. I would also avoid the "high end" motorcycle oils like Red Line and Motul. They are ester based oils that do not cling to metal well providing poor corrosion protection in engines that have an offseason storage like PWC.

Thank you kindly for your quick response. With regards to the synthetic oil, I have read multiple times that it can cause the one way Sprague clutch to slip and that's why Yamaha has specified a mineral based oil. Not that it matters as I'm just going to stick with a mineral based oil here.

So to confirm what you had said, anything that's labeled "energy conserving" has Moly in it and to steer clear of that?'

Also, what are these "Friction Modifiers" listed in automotive oils called so that we know not to use them? Is it just Moly and ester based oils?

Is an automotive oil that has the API SL rating ok as long as it does not list any extra additives?

Sorry for all the questions here, I like to be very thorough and feel this thread would be very beneficial to myself and others just looking for a regular mineral grade oil with the correct additives and more importantly not choose something with incorrect additives.

[allenvos]

Any quality 10w40 mineral oil works just fine. It doesn't have to be JASO rated. We have to use JASO oil in the Sea Doo's due to the wet friction clutch on the supercharger.

I have heard that seadoos need JASO due to the wet clutch. Is there a straight mineral grade 10w40 oil that exists that does not have all these extra additives?
I did find a Lucas 10w40 oil that's JASO spec'd so it sounds like that would be a good choice despite not having a wet clutch and needing the JASO as it wont hurt my engine.

[Green Hulk]

I have heard that seadoos need JASO due to the wet clutch. Is there a straight mineral grade 10w40 oil that exists that does not have all these extra additives?
I did find a Lucas 10w40 oil that's JASO spec'd so it sounds like that would be a good choice despite not having a wet clutch and needing the JASO as it wont hurt my engine.

JASO won't hurt at all, it's just not necessary.

[allenvos]

JASO won't hurt at all, it's just not necessary.

So the Lucas 10w40 mineral based oil I've found is Lucas # 10767 and has these specifications.

• Meets or exceeds: API SG / SF / CC / CD, JASO MA & JASO MA-2, ACEA A3

I also found a straight mineral based 10w40 without the JASO except it has these specs

API SP, SN Plus, SN, SM, SL, ILSAC GF-6

Correct me if I'm wrong here, but doesn't the ILSAC spec have a crapload of additives that I wouldn't want in my engine?

Or is there a specific straight mineral based 10w40 that you would recommend I use?

[Team Bilford]

You can always buy the Yamalube 4W on Amazon or Green Hulk and have it delivered to your door.

[Mr. GP1800]

You can always buy the Yamalube 4W on Amazon or Green Hulk and have it delivered to your door.

That’s what I would do. Or make a trip to the Yamaha dealer and buy enough to last a few years. I keep supplies on hand to do several oil changes before I need to buy more.

[allenvos]

You can always buy the Yamalube 4W on Amazon or Green Hulk and have it delivered to your door.

Yes, that would be the easy way out. However for the sake of having a thread with some damn good info , what are your thoughts about the specifications on the Lucas oils I have found?

[Team Bilford]

Yes, that would be the easy way out. However for the sake of having a thread with some damn good info , what are your thoughts about the specifications on the Lucas oils I have found?

Ok, well that was my test question for you. You are not simply looking for a solution, you are looking for an oil education. Oil threads are great for that and many different opinions. There are several good oil threads, but the one that I would recommend that you read is the one titled, "why almost any oil is better than XPS." I would link it for you, but I know more about oil than software.

[allenvos]

Ok, well that was my test question for you. You are not simply looking for a solution, you are looking for an oil education. Oil threads are great for that and many different opinions. There are several good oil threads, but the one that I would recommend that you read is the one titled, "why almost any oil is better than XPS." I would link it for you, but I know more about oil than software.

Absolutely It would be easy to just purchase the Yama lube, but I feel its always better to have different options and being able to decifier them is key.
I did a search for that thread you recommended , I'm not trying to sound like a moron here but I cant seem to find it?

[Green Hulk]

I did a search for that thread you recommended , I'm not trying to sound like a moron here but I cant seem to find it?

Here you go Why almost every 40 weight oil is better than BRP XPS "Summer Blend" - Greenhulk Personal Watercraft Performance Forums

[jolson]

Question regarding synthetic Mobile 1 Highmileage 10-40.

I don’t use it, but my partners do. We do 60 hrs a season.
this will cause the clutch to slip? The spraques to prematurely wear out?

[Team Bilford]

Question regarding synthetic Mobile 1 Highmileage 10-40.

I don’t use it, but my partners do. We do 60 hrs a season.
this will cause the clutch to slip? The spraques to prematurely wear out?

Most "high mileage" oils include seal swelling additives to help with primarily oil seepage around the valve stems. I wouldn't use them in any of my skis.
If you want to use a Mobil 1 product, the 10W-40 Racing 4T is an excellent oil. Most automotive oils will not contain as high a level of anti-wear package of zinc, calcium and phosphorus. You also run the risk of auto oils containing friction modifiers. Marine or motorcycle oils are the best places to look for an alternative to OEM branded products.