Most "high mileage" oils include seal swelling additives to help with primarily oil seepage around the valve stems. I wouldn't use them in any of my skis.
If you want to use a Mobil 1 product, the 10W-40 Racing 4T is an excellent oil. Most automotive oils will not contain as high a level of anti-wear package of zinc, calcium and phosphorus. You also run the risk of auto oils containing friction modifiers. Marine or motorcycle oils are the best places to look for an alternative to OEM branded products.
righton. I agree. I use amsoil Marine. I just wasn’t comfortable using the M1 highmileage on my own ski.
Thanks for the input.
Most anti-wear packages use zinc and other sacrificial metals to protect bearings, journals, and valves. Unfortunately, every time the API certifies.a new rating standard, it usually lowers these critical metals in response to the EPA for pollution concerns or to protect catalytic converters. This is why using the latest oil classification is in fact, many times a less protecting oil. It is also why you need to know about exemptions to these rules. Many motorcycle oils continue to use older API classifications because of their metal concentration. It is also why "Racing" oils are allowed to have much more robust additive packages. Since PWC don't currently have catalytic converters, we get better protection with older API classifications and motorcycle oils.
2021 RXP X 300
2018 RXP X 300
2003 XP DI
1999 XPL (sold)
2-1997 XP (sold)
1997 GP1200 (sold in a month)
2-1994 Xi-R (sold)
2-1993 Xi (sold)
That’s what I would do. Or make a trip to the Yamaha dealer and buy enough to last a few years. I keep supplies on hand to do several oil changes before I need to buy more.
yep thats what i do! 380 hrs still stock compression changed the clutch at 250 hrs
15 fzs svho scom
07 FX 140 riva still slow
07 vx riva slow
09 232 limited YJB
98 GSX limited
95 HX
93 SP slow as hell
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