Tweet
This DIY is for constructing a "Trolling"/Horizontal type rod holder, for the "83 Gator" PWC Rack (http://greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=117108). This Rod Holder is designed for most any kind of rod handle types ("Straight-butt" or "Pistol Grip"). I originally constructed my rack in such a manner that, hopefully, add-ons could be used without having to screw/bolt/drill anything into the original frame work of the rack. This rod holder is one such add-on.
For a complete pictorial w/captions: http://picasaweb.google.com/billy.crews/PWCRACKMODS
PICTURES IN THIS POST: I've tried my best to attach a picture immediately under the steps being taken for this project. If the pic. is too small, scroll down to the bottom of this post for a larger view. Please keep in mind, the pics. at the bottom of this post may appear out of order... sorry for any confusion.
TOOLS NEEDED: Hack Saw, Garden file, pencil or pen for making cut marks, and a pair of pliers.
MATERIALS NEEDED:
(These joints/fittings are for 1 Inch, Sched. 40 PVC pipe.)
Top Row (L to R):
Slip "T": 1
Slip Elbow/"90": 1
Slip Coupling: 1 (I know, the pic. is wrong - it should be a slip coupling
)
3/4 Female Threaded Adapter: 1
1 & 1/2 X 3/4 Slip and Threaded Female Bushing: 1
Middle Row (L to R):
3/4 X 3 & 1/2 Galvanized Nipple: 1
3/8 X 2 Fender Washer: 1
Interior Coupling: 2 (See PWC Rack Build Thread, Step 1: http://greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=117108)
Bottom Row (L to R):
Shown is an Attwood Wire Rod Holder. They can be found in WalMart and run about $13.00. The Attwood Rod Holder includes: Triangular Washer, Rubber Coated Rod Holder and Wing Nut (http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/p...Angle--4--Stem).
BUILDING THE ROD HOLDER
STEP 1: To begin, you need to notch out two pieces of PVC into one end of the "T" slip joint. This will stable your Rod Holder as it's being used. To do this hold the "T" long ways up. Slip the stem of the Attwood Rod Holder into the "T" and, with a pencil/pen, mark the width of the Holder.
Continue marking the width, from the top of the "T", down on each side, about 1/2 inch.
Now, use you Hack Saw and cut each line marked, as shown.
Once your marks have been cut you can now remove the notches on each side of the "T" with the pliers. You may have to work in and up and down motion to get each "tab" to come loose.
Once the tabs are removed, clean up your notches with the garden file. Your "T" joint should now look like this:
STEP 2:Next, we connect the notched "T" to the "90" by using an interior coupling.
The "T" will be cemented in at an angle, and it's very important to get a "good" angle. This angle will determine how high up your rod tip will be pointed when trolling. Make a mark across the joints while they are dry fitted; this will help you to maintain that "good" angle.
Once you've selected your angle, cement the joints together and set aside for later.
STEP 3:In this step we want to use the file again to remove the "wrench grips" located on the threaded end of the 3/4 Inch Threaded Female Adapter. You want to remove enough material so that it will easily slip into a coupling or other joint.
Remember to only remove material on the outside of the threaded end of the Adapter.
STEP 4: Now cement the other end, that is the "unthreaded" end of the adapter, into the end of a Coupling.
Next, connect the Coupling/Threaded Adapter to the remaining bottom of the "90" Joint that is connected to the "T" Joint.
Your Rod Holder should now look like this:
Did you file enough material off the threaded end of the Adapter? If not, it will not slip "easily" into the Cross Joint on the End Wall of the Rack, and you'll notice a gap.
File enough material off and the bottom end of your Rod Holder should slip right in (and spin, easily).
STEP 5: Now, take the Galvanized Nipple and screw it into the bottom of the Rod Holder (Threaded Female Adapter). Hand tighten only! Do not use wrenches, as the nipple threads get larger - use a wrench and your apt to split the Adapter.
STEP 6: Once again, insert the Holder into the Cross Joint on the End Wall of the Rack. The bottom portion of the Nipple should be showing at the bottom of the Cross joint. Now take your remaining piece of PVC fitting, the Slip/Female Pipe Bushing and hand tighten the Holder to your Rack snugly. Hand tighten only! (You'll notice in the STEP 7 pic, that there is a "gap" in the bottom of the End Wall Cross Joint and the bottom fitting used to secure it. Ideally, no gap should exist... you can remedy this by checking for a gap during a dry fit and 1, Try a shorter Galvanized Nipple. Or, 2, removing some material and "shorten" the length of the Female Adapter's upper/unthreaded end.)
STEP 7: Finally, insert your Attwood Rod Holder: The rubber coated portion goes through the top of the "T" Joint on your holder; the base of the rubber coated section should fit down into the notches. With the bottom threads of the Attwood unit sticking out of the bottom of the "T". Secure to the bottom of the "T" in the following order: 1. Fender Washer, 2. Triangle Washer, 3. Wing Nut. Your Rod Holder should now be secure on your Rack and ready for use.
RIGHT OR LEFT "HANDED": Is your Rod Holder pointed in the right direction? If you were trolling, the Rod Holder (in correct configuration) should hold a rod pointed towards the rear of the ski, with the rod tip up. The rod should also be on the "outside" of the Rack, so as to not interfere with the opening of an ice chest lid.
If you want to build a Rod Holder for each side of your Rack, the only change is the direction of the angle of the "T" Joint when connected to the "90" Joint. -Right should be opposite of left. This picture shows an incorrect configuration:
PAINTING YOUR ROD HOLDER: If you decide to paint your Rod Holder(s), be sure to use paint made for plastic. I have suggested one such paint in my PWC Rack Build Thread. Be sure to remove all hardware and cover any holes w/threads prior to painting.
VERSATILE: Note that this Rod Holder can be used for multiple styles of rod handles and rod/reel sizes. (Although I don't recommended trying to land a Marlin w/this setup...) Now, go fish!
For a complete pictorial w/captions: http://picasaweb.google.com/billy.crews/PWCRACKMODS
PICTURES IN THIS POST: I've tried my best to attach a picture immediately under the steps being taken for this project. If the pic. is too small, scroll down to the bottom of this post for a larger view. Please keep in mind, the pics. at the bottom of this post may appear out of order... sorry for any confusion.
TOOLS NEEDED: Hack Saw, Garden file, pencil or pen for making cut marks, and a pair of pliers.
MATERIALS NEEDED:
(These joints/fittings are for 1 Inch, Sched. 40 PVC pipe.)
Top Row (L to R):
Slip "T": 1
Slip Elbow/"90": 1
Slip Coupling: 1 (I know, the pic. is wrong - it should be a slip coupling
)3/4 Female Threaded Adapter: 1
1 & 1/2 X 3/4 Slip and Threaded Female Bushing: 1
Middle Row (L to R):
3/4 X 3 & 1/2 Galvanized Nipple: 1
3/8 X 2 Fender Washer: 1
Interior Coupling: 2 (See PWC Rack Build Thread, Step 1: http://greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=117108)
Bottom Row (L to R):
Shown is an Attwood Wire Rod Holder. They can be found in WalMart and run about $13.00. The Attwood Rod Holder includes: Triangular Washer, Rubber Coated Rod Holder and Wing Nut (http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/p...Angle--4--Stem).
BUILDING THE ROD HOLDER
STEP 1: To begin, you need to notch out two pieces of PVC into one end of the "T" slip joint. This will stable your Rod Holder as it's being used. To do this hold the "T" long ways up. Slip the stem of the Attwood Rod Holder into the "T" and, with a pencil/pen, mark the width of the Holder.
Continue marking the width, from the top of the "T", down on each side, about 1/2 inch.
Now, use you Hack Saw and cut each line marked, as shown.
Once your marks have been cut you can now remove the notches on each side of the "T" with the pliers. You may have to work in and up and down motion to get each "tab" to come loose.
Once the tabs are removed, clean up your notches with the garden file. Your "T" joint should now look like this:
STEP 2:Next, we connect the notched "T" to the "90" by using an interior coupling.
The "T" will be cemented in at an angle, and it's very important to get a "good" angle. This angle will determine how high up your rod tip will be pointed when trolling. Make a mark across the joints while they are dry fitted; this will help you to maintain that "good" angle.
Once you've selected your angle, cement the joints together and set aside for later.
STEP 3:In this step we want to use the file again to remove the "wrench grips" located on the threaded end of the 3/4 Inch Threaded Female Adapter. You want to remove enough material so that it will easily slip into a coupling or other joint.
Remember to only remove material on the outside of the threaded end of the Adapter.
STEP 4: Now cement the other end, that is the "unthreaded" end of the adapter, into the end of a Coupling.
Next, connect the Coupling/Threaded Adapter to the remaining bottom of the "90" Joint that is connected to the "T" Joint.
Your Rod Holder should now look like this:
Did you file enough material off the threaded end of the Adapter? If not, it will not slip "easily" into the Cross Joint on the End Wall of the Rack, and you'll notice a gap.
File enough material off and the bottom end of your Rod Holder should slip right in (and spin, easily).
STEP 5: Now, take the Galvanized Nipple and screw it into the bottom of the Rod Holder (Threaded Female Adapter). Hand tighten only! Do not use wrenches, as the nipple threads get larger - use a wrench and your apt to split the Adapter.
STEP 6: Once again, insert the Holder into the Cross Joint on the End Wall of the Rack. The bottom portion of the Nipple should be showing at the bottom of the Cross joint. Now take your remaining piece of PVC fitting, the Slip/Female Pipe Bushing and hand tighten the Holder to your Rack snugly. Hand tighten only! (You'll notice in the STEP 7 pic, that there is a "gap" in the bottom of the End Wall Cross Joint and the bottom fitting used to secure it. Ideally, no gap should exist... you can remedy this by checking for a gap during a dry fit and 1, Try a shorter Galvanized Nipple. Or, 2, removing some material and "shorten" the length of the Female Adapter's upper/unthreaded end.)
STEP 7: Finally, insert your Attwood Rod Holder: The rubber coated portion goes through the top of the "T" Joint on your holder; the base of the rubber coated section should fit down into the notches. With the bottom threads of the Attwood unit sticking out of the bottom of the "T". Secure to the bottom of the "T" in the following order: 1. Fender Washer, 2. Triangle Washer, 3. Wing Nut. Your Rod Holder should now be secure on your Rack and ready for use.
RIGHT OR LEFT "HANDED": Is your Rod Holder pointed in the right direction? If you were trolling, the Rod Holder (in correct configuration) should hold a rod pointed towards the rear of the ski, with the rod tip up. The rod should also be on the "outside" of the Rack, so as to not interfere with the opening of an ice chest lid.
If you want to build a Rod Holder for each side of your Rack, the only change is the direction of the angle of the "T" Joint when connected to the "90" Joint. -Right should be opposite of left. This picture shows an incorrect configuration:
PAINTING YOUR ROD HOLDER: If you decide to paint your Rod Holder(s), be sure to use paint made for plastic. I have suggested one such paint in my PWC Rack Build Thread. Be sure to remove all hardware and cover any holes w/threads prior to painting.
VERSATILE: Note that this Rod Holder can be used for multiple styles of rod handles and rod/reel sizes. (Although I don't recommended trying to land a Marlin w/this setup...) Now, go fish!
Attached Files
.
Comment