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This sticky post will be devoted to new and current members that wish to use it as a reference.
Whenever possible, use the forum search function. You will find endless information on here for whatever questions you may have. This page will be the kick-start to frequently asked questions, modifications, and will be a supplement to the rest of your research. After you have researched and obtained a basic education on your machine, by all means post away and we will be glad to help. Thank you and welcome to the forum!
I just got my Seadoo, what do I need to know?
Break-in the machine properly for appx. 10 hours. Vary the throttle and rpms and do not cruise at WOT (wide open throttle) for prolonged amounts of time. DO NOT USE THE WHITE LEARNING KEY during break-in! A good practice is to do a WOT burst for x seconds depending on the number of hours. (example: at 1 hour, do 1 second WOT throttle bursts every 10 minutes or so, at 3 hours, do 3 second WOT bursts, etc)
If the machine is new, make sure you or a dealer performs a 10 hour service. Mostly changing the oil is critically important. The oil should be maintained right between the bends when HOT. An oil level that is too low or too high is dangerous and will impact your machine’s performance.
For salt water riders, FLUSH THE MACHINE after every single use. REMEMBER, start the ski first, THEN turn on the hose. Run for 1-2 minutes at the most @ idle (no reason to rev it whatsoever). Then turn the hose off FIRST, then turn off the ski. This order is critical, I cannot express that enough. Invest in several cans of WD-40, CRC corrosion spray, or Bombardier lube and mist everything in the engine compartment after riding in salt water to dilute salt and inhibit corrosion effects. The extra care will payoff in the end. Take care of your ski and it will take care of you.
General Maintenance
Please visit the technical information sub-forum for How-To’s on most maintenance procedures. http://www.greenhulk.net/forum/viewforum.php?f=6
Change the oil. At least once per season or every 50 hours, whichever comes first. You need to suck the oil out through the dipstick tube. Do not overfill oil. Must be between the bends on the dipstick. Checking the oil requires the engine to be hot and level. Idle the engine for 30 second, turn it off, wait 30 seconds and check the level. It is important to note that whatever oil you use meets the standards explained in the manual and the oil CANNOT contain any friction modifiers.
Change the anti-freeze/coolant every 2 years or 200 hours, whichever comes first. 50/50 mix
Spark plugs stay good for awhile, but changing them every year or every 100 hours will suffice. For a better spark plug alternative, stock machines can use a Denso Iridium IXU24. Modified machines should utilize the Denso Iridium IXU27.
As mentioned, salt water riders MUST flush the machine after every use, even though it’s a closed loop machine. Although no raw water circulates the engine block, raw water still cools the exhaust system.
Prolonged Storage / Winter Storage - For those in freezing climates, protect your investment. You must pump antifreeze through your intercooler if you own a RXP or RXT. All other machines should place antifreeze in the exhaust system for protection. Add fuel stabilizer to the fuel tank, and lubricate the cylinders by removing the spark plugs and spraying fogging oil or Bombardier lube into each cylinder. Then depress the throttle completely, and hold down the start button for 5 seconds or so. This will drown the motor and crank it while preventing it from starting. For warmer climates, I suggest you still stabilize the fuel and lubricate the cylinders.
Where can I buy aftermarket parts for my machine?
This site is offered free of charge to each and every member. A great way to support the site is buying from the online store located at www.4tecperformance.com It has pretty much every proven part available for our machines, and it also features the most common products at a discount. To receive this discount, enter the coupon code “greenhulk” upon checkout.
Measuring top speed and typical RPMs:
A crucial thing to realize is that speed CANNOT be measured via the stock speedometer. It is inaccurate, but gives you a ballpark idea. Don’t come on the site saying you have a bone stock RXP or RXT doing 72 mph, because you don’t unfortunately. If you intend on getting caught up in watercraft performance, you NEED a GPS to measure your stock speeds for a baseline, and then incrementally see your gains.
The 2002+ GTX should see +/- 7600 rpms and 57ish mph on a GPS
The 2003+ GTX SC should see +/- 7600 rpms and 61ish mph on a GPS
The 2004+ RXP should see +/- 8100 rpms and 68-69ish mph on a GPS
The 2005+ RXT/GTX Limited should see +/- 8100 rpms and 65ish mph on a GPS
**Speeds and rpms vary with altitude, air temps, humidity, water temps, and other atmospheric conditions. Also, no two machines are alike. Props are different; hulls are different; engines are broken in differently.
What are the cheapest possible mods to install to increase top speed?
You can fill the rideplate holes and grind down the intake grate to make it flush. This is cheap cheap top speed. http://www.greenhulk.net/wp-content/truedgrate_01.jpg
For RXP owners, start with a Riva Intake Grate and OPAS block-off kit. Will make your machine hook up better, make it faster, and enhance it’s handling abilities.
GTX/RXT owners should start with OPAS block offs and a pump wedge. These make the heavier machines seem much lighter and nimble. Will increase top speed and decrease the wet surface area of the long 3-seater hulls.
After you’ve covered those basic bolt-ons, we recommend a SOLAS prop. BEWARE that as you add more and more mods, you will need the pitch of your impeller adjusted to compensate for the additional power. You may want to consider this if you plan on adding more mods in the future. These are the building blocks to a fast reliable machine.
OK, I installed the building block mods, but I want more power! What do you suggest?
The industry is constantly changing. New modifications are constantly being tested and designed. To this date, the next logical aspect you want to address is your engine’s air intake and exhaust.
AIR INTAKE: A Riva power filter is a great direct bolt-on fit that will add more RPMS and top speed as well as more low-end grunt. You can also design your own air intake system. Do searches on the forum and you will see hundreds of different air intake designs that people devised out of common industrial materials like PVC, flex hose, etc. Plese be aware that if you modify your intake you run the risk of water injestion.
EXHAUST: You have many options with an exhaust. The stock system features a highly contoured, restrictive, and cluttered design. You can either utilize the stock exhaust exit which is located near the jet pump on the side, or you can block off the stock exhaust and drill a new hole right out the back for a thru-hull.
To utilize the stock exit, you would need a Power Flow pipe. This removes all the rubber hosing and exhaust resonator and features a pipe straight from the waterbox and across to the side exhaust exit. With this style exhaust, most users experience a louder resonance at about the 3000 rpm mark which can become agitating, while some love it.
To get a less clutter alternative with a very nice exhaust tone, there are multiple waterbox options, mufflers, thru-hull kits, etc. A board search will provide you with a multitude of opinions on the exhausts...
Conclusion
Up to this point, you have built a ski that has a lot more throttle response, more handling ability, and of course just downright more fun! Ultimately, you now have Riva Stage I kit with an exhaust mod.
If you still want more, the speed bug definitely bit your ass Welcome to the club! It’s time for an aftermarket external intercooler, supercharger impeller, racing ECUs, and many other in-depth mods which you will soon learn about. You can burn anywhere between 10 bucks in mods and right up to $50,000 and more.
That's about it for now. More will be added later as things are thought of. I'm sure I missed some things so don't attack me too bad if I left something out.
We look forward to continued growth of the Greenhulk online forums. We whole-heartedly anticipate active member participation. Don’t just join the site and be a lurker! Post away! make some friends, ask dumb questions, learn, have a good time, regardless of the topic. That’s why there are various sub-forums. We look forward to some new names and faces constantly joining and communicating.
Thank you,
The GreenHulk.net Community
www.greenhulk.net
www.4tecperformance.com
www.pwc-performance.com
www.rotaxracing-usa.com
Whenever possible, use the forum search function. You will find endless information on here for whatever questions you may have. This page will be the kick-start to frequently asked questions, modifications, and will be a supplement to the rest of your research. After you have researched and obtained a basic education on your machine, by all means post away and we will be glad to help. Thank you and welcome to the forum!
I just got my Seadoo, what do I need to know?
Break-in the machine properly for appx. 10 hours. Vary the throttle and rpms and do not cruise at WOT (wide open throttle) for prolonged amounts of time. DO NOT USE THE WHITE LEARNING KEY during break-in! A good practice is to do a WOT burst for x seconds depending on the number of hours. (example: at 1 hour, do 1 second WOT throttle bursts every 10 minutes or so, at 3 hours, do 3 second WOT bursts, etc)
If the machine is new, make sure you or a dealer performs a 10 hour service. Mostly changing the oil is critically important. The oil should be maintained right between the bends when HOT. An oil level that is too low or too high is dangerous and will impact your machine’s performance.
For salt water riders, FLUSH THE MACHINE after every single use. REMEMBER, start the ski first, THEN turn on the hose. Run for 1-2 minutes at the most @ idle (no reason to rev it whatsoever). Then turn the hose off FIRST, then turn off the ski. This order is critical, I cannot express that enough. Invest in several cans of WD-40, CRC corrosion spray, or Bombardier lube and mist everything in the engine compartment after riding in salt water to dilute salt and inhibit corrosion effects. The extra care will payoff in the end. Take care of your ski and it will take care of you.
General Maintenance
Please visit the technical information sub-forum for How-To’s on most maintenance procedures. http://www.greenhulk.net/forum/viewforum.php?f=6
Change the oil. At least once per season or every 50 hours, whichever comes first. You need to suck the oil out through the dipstick tube. Do not overfill oil. Must be between the bends on the dipstick. Checking the oil requires the engine to be hot and level. Idle the engine for 30 second, turn it off, wait 30 seconds and check the level. It is important to note that whatever oil you use meets the standards explained in the manual and the oil CANNOT contain any friction modifiers.
Change the anti-freeze/coolant every 2 years or 200 hours, whichever comes first. 50/50 mix
Spark plugs stay good for awhile, but changing them every year or every 100 hours will suffice. For a better spark plug alternative, stock machines can use a Denso Iridium IXU24. Modified machines should utilize the Denso Iridium IXU27.
As mentioned, salt water riders MUST flush the machine after every use, even though it’s a closed loop machine. Although no raw water circulates the engine block, raw water still cools the exhaust system.
Prolonged Storage / Winter Storage - For those in freezing climates, protect your investment. You must pump antifreeze through your intercooler if you own a RXP or RXT. All other machines should place antifreeze in the exhaust system for protection. Add fuel stabilizer to the fuel tank, and lubricate the cylinders by removing the spark plugs and spraying fogging oil or Bombardier lube into each cylinder. Then depress the throttle completely, and hold down the start button for 5 seconds or so. This will drown the motor and crank it while preventing it from starting. For warmer climates, I suggest you still stabilize the fuel and lubricate the cylinders.
Where can I buy aftermarket parts for my machine?
This site is offered free of charge to each and every member. A great way to support the site is buying from the online store located at www.4tecperformance.com It has pretty much every proven part available for our machines, and it also features the most common products at a discount. To receive this discount, enter the coupon code “greenhulk” upon checkout.
Measuring top speed and typical RPMs:
A crucial thing to realize is that speed CANNOT be measured via the stock speedometer. It is inaccurate, but gives you a ballpark idea. Don’t come on the site saying you have a bone stock RXP or RXT doing 72 mph, because you don’t unfortunately. If you intend on getting caught up in watercraft performance, you NEED a GPS to measure your stock speeds for a baseline, and then incrementally see your gains.
The 2002+ GTX should see +/- 7600 rpms and 57ish mph on a GPS
The 2003+ GTX SC should see +/- 7600 rpms and 61ish mph on a GPS
The 2004+ RXP should see +/- 8100 rpms and 68-69ish mph on a GPS
The 2005+ RXT/GTX Limited should see +/- 8100 rpms and 65ish mph on a GPS
**Speeds and rpms vary with altitude, air temps, humidity, water temps, and other atmospheric conditions. Also, no two machines are alike. Props are different; hulls are different; engines are broken in differently.
What are the cheapest possible mods to install to increase top speed?
You can fill the rideplate holes and grind down the intake grate to make it flush. This is cheap cheap top speed. http://www.greenhulk.net/wp-content/truedgrate_01.jpg
For RXP owners, start with a Riva Intake Grate and OPAS block-off kit. Will make your machine hook up better, make it faster, and enhance it’s handling abilities.
GTX/RXT owners should start with OPAS block offs and a pump wedge. These make the heavier machines seem much lighter and nimble. Will increase top speed and decrease the wet surface area of the long 3-seater hulls.
After you’ve covered those basic bolt-ons, we recommend a SOLAS prop. BEWARE that as you add more and more mods, you will need the pitch of your impeller adjusted to compensate for the additional power. You may want to consider this if you plan on adding more mods in the future. These are the building blocks to a fast reliable machine.
OK, I installed the building block mods, but I want more power! What do you suggest?
The industry is constantly changing. New modifications are constantly being tested and designed. To this date, the next logical aspect you want to address is your engine’s air intake and exhaust.
AIR INTAKE: A Riva power filter is a great direct bolt-on fit that will add more RPMS and top speed as well as more low-end grunt. You can also design your own air intake system. Do searches on the forum and you will see hundreds of different air intake designs that people devised out of common industrial materials like PVC, flex hose, etc. Plese be aware that if you modify your intake you run the risk of water injestion.
EXHAUST: You have many options with an exhaust. The stock system features a highly contoured, restrictive, and cluttered design. You can either utilize the stock exhaust exit which is located near the jet pump on the side, or you can block off the stock exhaust and drill a new hole right out the back for a thru-hull.
To utilize the stock exit, you would need a Power Flow pipe. This removes all the rubber hosing and exhaust resonator and features a pipe straight from the waterbox and across to the side exhaust exit. With this style exhaust, most users experience a louder resonance at about the 3000 rpm mark which can become agitating, while some love it.
To get a less clutter alternative with a very nice exhaust tone, there are multiple waterbox options, mufflers, thru-hull kits, etc. A board search will provide you with a multitude of opinions on the exhausts...
Conclusion
Up to this point, you have built a ski that has a lot more throttle response, more handling ability, and of course just downright more fun! Ultimately, you now have Riva Stage I kit with an exhaust mod.
If you still want more, the speed bug definitely bit your ass Welcome to the club! It’s time for an aftermarket external intercooler, supercharger impeller, racing ECUs, and many other in-depth mods which you will soon learn about. You can burn anywhere between 10 bucks in mods and right up to $50,000 and more.
That's about it for now. More will be added later as things are thought of. I'm sure I missed some things so don't attack me too bad if I left something out.
We look forward to continued growth of the Greenhulk online forums. We whole-heartedly anticipate active member participation. Don’t just join the site and be a lurker! Post away! make some friends, ask dumb questions, learn, have a good time, regardless of the topic. That’s why there are various sub-forums. We look forward to some new names and faces constantly joining and communicating.
Thank you,
The GreenHulk.net Community
www.greenhulk.net
www.4tecperformance.com
www.pwc-performance.com
www.rotaxracing-usa.com